Western Kenya Custom Birding Tour

Papyrus Gonoleks

 

Western Kenya Custom Birding Tour

Report and photos by Tour Leader Washington Wachira

Black-faced Rufous Warbler

This exciting Western Kenya Custom Birding Tour was customised from our Western Kenya Birding Tour, with the goal of finding some specific species from this beautiful region. The tour focused on the region from Lake Victoria and North to Malaba area. Several habitats and micro-habitats were birded in an effort to score the target species.

Red-headed Bluebill

 

TOP BIRDS OF THE TRIP – AS VOTED FOR BY THE GUESTS

• Crowned Eagle
• Western Osprey
• Southern Red Bishop
• Black-winged Red Bishop
• Papyrus Gonolek
• Rock Pratincole

 

Equatorial Akalat

Southern Red Bishop

 

DAY 1 – 5/11/2021: NAIROBI TO KISUMU

The Western Kenya Custom Birding Tour began in Kisumu where the guests flew in and met the Tour Leader (Washington) and Driver (Jack). The plane landed on time and we all united, ready to explore this magical region.

Driving from the airport, we added our first Hadada Ibis, Pied Crow and Yellow-billed Kite.

We then settled in to our rooms and enjoyed a delicious lunch. We took a well-deserved break to rest up as we prepared for the great adventure ahead of us.

Black-headed Gonolek

In the afternoon, we decided to enjoy our first walk along the papyrus swamps. The Black-headed Gonolek welcomed us to the parking lot, before we could head out. Driving to the swamps, we enjoyed a few stops which yielded African Openbill and our first Eastern Plantain-eaters. Once at the papyrus swamps, we enjoyed more specialized species such as Slender-billed Weaver and Northern Brown-throated Weaver. A patient Broad-billed Roller also gave us wonderful views.

As the sun went down over the mighty Lake Victoria, we retraced our steps back to the hotel, for a relaxed evening.

DAY 2 – 6/11/2021 LAKE VICTORIA AND AHERO RICE SCHEME

We joined our local guide Maurice as the lake warmed up, and begun our detailed exploration of this mighty ecosystem. We decided to walk along the shores before we could board our boat and experience the inner parts of the lake. Our walk was very fruitful and yielded many nice birds including a showy Blue-headed Coucal, Golden-backed Weaver, Papyrus Canary, Red-chested Sunbird and a migrant Willow Warbler.

We then boarded our boat and enjoyed driving deeper into the lake. We scanned the shoreline, and scored Water Thick-knee, Malachite Kingfisher, African Jacana, Striated Heron and many Greater Swamp Warblers. The papyrus swamps here are doing well and the reeds looked very healthy. There were also a few cattails. Unfortunately, water hyacinth is still present along the edges of the lake.

Long-toed Lapwing

In the afternoon, we enjoyed the Southern part of the basin and explored the Ahero area. Here we had many waders, including Common Greenshank, Long-toed Lapwing, Common Ringed Plover, Wood Sandpiper and Ruff. We also enjoyed views of a Western Marsh Harrier, as it flew along the rice farms. One Fan-tailed Widowbird entertained us with a showy wing-flashing dance. We later found many more of the species. Southern Red Bishops were very vigilant, taking turns to occupy the best perch on tops of bushes.

We closed the day with our first Laughing Doves of the trip, feeding inside one of the rice canals.

Water Thick-knee (immature)

DAY 3 – 7/11/2021: LAKE VICTORIA AND LAKE KANYABOLI/ YALA SWAMP

The second boat trip was nothing short of phenomenal, and certainly one of the highlights on this Western Kenya Birding Tour. We started with a Swamp Flycatcher hunting right at the docks. We also enjoyed many Woodland Kingfishers, Grey-headed Kingfishers, Black-headed Weavers and Village Weavers.

A Carruthers’s Cisticola song went off from among the reeds. We moved closer and edged our boat close enough to see the species. In no time, the bird was swirling in the air with its characteristic song display. We later encountered many more members of the species. The real highlight however, was a true stunner – Papyrus Gonolek. We had two very obliging individuals, feeding and singing next to the boat. This was the true climax of our boat ride experience. We also enjoyed many Whiskered Terns and White-winged Terns, as they sat on floating sticks across the water. At the end of the boat ride, we had a great and patient African Grey Woodpecker at the car park.

Red-chested Sunbird

The afternoon was spent birding and exploring the areas where Yala Swamp meets Lake Kanyaboli, with our local guide Ibrahim. Here we had multiple Carruthers’s Cisticolas, Red-chested Sunbirds and Greater Swamp Warblers sightings. The highlight however, was a rarely encountered Western Osprey hunt. As we walked along the swamp edges, we were rewarded with a full view, as an adult Western Osprey swooped into the water, grabbed a whole Tilapia fish and left with it. We enjoyed seeing how the Osprey adjusted the position of the fish on its talons, allowing superb aerodynamics.

DAY 4 – 8/11/2021: KISUMU TO BUNGOMA

This was a travel day where we were to change our base from Kisumu, along the shores of Lake Victoria; to Bungoma in the Western Province. We had two main targets today, and more potential species. Before leaving Kisumu, we enjoyed a Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird singing on top of an Acrocarpus tree. Near here, we also enjoyed a fruiting fig tree, where Double-toothed Barbets, Meyer’s Parrots and nearby a pair of Eastern Plantain-eater shared a home.

The first target was to be found with ease as we cruised through Siaya area. We found a stunning female Long-crested Eagle perched on a pole next to the road. This was a major target for the guests on this day, and we were all glad to meet her early. We stopped and alighted to enjoy her regal beauty. While at it, hawk-eyed Jack spotted target number two, a Yellow-mantled Widowbird. The birds in this area are a unique subspecies, with yellow restricted to the shoulders.

We carried on, heading to the Nzoia River, where we hopped to link up with a Rock Pratincole – another of our key targets for the whole tour. We were however in for a little surprise on the way – a majestic Western Banded Snake-Eagle was seen perched at the edge of a small swamp, staking out snakes. As if in a documentary scene, we watched as the eagle swooped down to the grass and killed an unidentified snake species. We watched in awe as the eagle swallowed its prey whole. This was just magical. A single Shikra flew over, and we also scored a few Lizard Buzzards along this road.

Western Banded Snake-Eagle

We then picked our local guide, Ibrahim and continued with our journey. The main quest here did not disappoint – we scored about eight Rock Pratincoles along a small stretch of the mighty Nzoia River. This species is quite rare in Kenya and sightings like this are a great prize. Our Western Kenya Birding Tour offers the best chance to see this species in Kenya.

Rock Pratincoles

DAY 5 – 9/11/2021: MALABA AND BUNGOMA

Our day was spent exploring the Northern sections of Busia County. We started the morning in Bungoma and worked our way towards Malaba and Katotoi. Part of the morning was also spent at the historic Kakapel Rock Art Monument. This amazing rock art site is believed to date back to about 2000 years; with some of its art expected to be about 4000 years old. While walking around the site, we enjoyed some great views at Garden Warblers.

We then carried on exploring several sites around Katotoi. Here we had some bushes and rocky hills to bird. We also birded along the river where Kenya meets Uganda. Highlights here included a Foxy Cisticola (this small bird was a great fit for the species; and also lacked the eye-ring-look portrayed by Siffling Cisticola. It may be a first record for the species in the area, and more visits will help uncover more), Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, African Firefinch and Common Swifts. Whistling Cisticolas were heard calling but did not come into view. We also had a Steppe Buzzard fly over us.

Woodland Kingfisher

Our day was also filled with great cultural immersions, led by our local guide Ouma. We enjoyed learning bits about the Teso people of Western Kenya. We got to see some of their beautiful homesteads and also learn the crops they grow.

DAY 6 – 10/11/2021: BUSIA TO KAKAMEGA

This day was dedicated to exploring the Southern expanse of Busia County. We picked our local guide Winston and began our roadside stops soon after.

Angolan Swallow

Our first exciting bird was a Copper Sunbird that sat patiently for us to investigate. Near here, we also had a Southern Citril and several Yellow-throated Leafloves. We then flashed two Plain-backed Pipits, of the Western race as we walked along the edge of a farm. The same farm had a beautiful Whinchat and one eclipse male Yellow-mantled Widowbird. We enjoyed a perched Compact Weaver near a maize plantation – a great species for the Western Kenya Custom Birding Tour. We also had a few Black-crowned Waxbills moving around the same farm. Before leaving here, we had a nice African Blue Flycatcher, Blue-spotted Wood-Dove and Olive-bellied Sunbird feeding along the Sio River.

We then travelled to another section of grassland, where we scored some White-browed Coucals, Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters and one Northern Black Flycatcher. In a nearby plantation, we had many Black-winged Red Bishops flying around and one perched Black-winged Kite.

Blue-cheeked Bee-eater

Along the shores of the Nzoia River, we enjoyed a flock of Yellow-billed Kites feeding on flying termites. We also had several displaying Fan-tailed Widowbirds enjoying the same banquet. In a nearby field, we counted about ten African Wattled Lapwings.

We then enjoyed a drive to Kakamega Forest, passing by the Mumias Township. We were welcomed to the lodge by several Grey-throated Barbets, Black-and-white-casqued Hornbill, Cardinal Woodpecker and a White-throated Bee-eater. Kakamega Forest is a great destination and forms a key part for our Western Kenya Custom Birding Tour.

Great Blue Turaco

DAY 7 – 11/11/2021: KAKAMEGA FOREST

Our day started well at the lodge grounds where we were easily adding species to our list. Grey-throated Barbets and Green-headed Sunbirds showed well. We were soon interrupted by a Colobus Monkey (Mau Forest Guereza) warning call. We soon connected with a young Crowned Eagle, about eleven months old, and learnt that this was the cause of all the alarm. We enjoyed the eagle as he got mobbed repeatedly by an array of birds: African Shrike-Flycatcher fly-bombed the eagle repeatedly, Pink-footed Puffback and Bocage’s Bush-Shrike joined a Green Sunbird above.

Olive-green Camaroptera

Forest Weaver

In a nearby tree a nice pair of Yellow-spotted Barbets were feeding peacefully. Soon we saw the eagle fly into a different tree where one of the male Colobus Monkeys followed. The monkey repeatedly scared off the eagle and this went on for a few minutes; then the eagle took a higher perch and turned the tables. We watched as the monkey fled fearing for his life, when the eagle showed that “he meant business”. Olive Baboons were feeding below undisturbed by the action.

Crowned Eagle

After breakfast we walked another section of forest where we enjoyed Green-throated Sunbird, Western Oriole, Little Greenbul, Jameson’s Wattle-eye, Great Blue Turaco, Olive-green Camaroptera, Sharpe’s Drongo, Petit’s Cuckoo-Shrike, Chubb’s Cisticola and Forest Weaver. We closed the session with a phenomenal sighting – a European Pied Flycatcher. This is a mega find for Kenya and has just been recently cleared from the rare birds list for the country (birds that have been seen less than five times in Kenya). The Western Kenya Custom Birding Tour delivered a mega find!!!

European Pied Flycatcher

In the afternoon, we had some serious storm over the forest and it rained for about an hour. After the rain subsided, we enjoyed a walk along the road towards the river. Here we enjoyed a nice Grey Wagtail and a pair of Mountain Wagtails. We also had Stuhlmann’s Starlings and a Uganda Woodland Warbler.

We also enjoyed many families of Stuhlmann’s Blue Monkeys and Mau Forest Guerezas; all across the forest.

Grey Wagtail

DAY 8 – 12/11/2021: KAKAMEGA FOREST

Our second full day exploring Kakamega Forest, where we had divided the walks into three sessions. Before breakfast, we walked along the main road and took a fork heading North. Here we enjoyed yet another female European Pied Flycatcher – what a coincidence? Two rare birds in two consecutive days. Near here, we had our first White-chinned Prinias too.

White-chinned Prinia

During this walk, we also enjoyed our first Plain Greenbul of the day, singing well in view; and an Ashy Flycatcher. There was also one African Emerald Cuckoo seen perched high in a tree.

Plain Greenbul

Our mid-morning walk was very productive as we returned to the river. The Grey Wagtail and Mountain Wagtails were still around. African Pied Wagtails were also nearby; making it three Wagtails at a single river – the Western Kenya Custom Birding Tour delivered again!!! Here we also had two beautiful Dusky Tits. We then walked up a road leading South-West where we had an amazing collection of birds such as Blue Malkoha, Thick-billed Honeyguide, Red-headed Malimbe, Black-billed Weaver, Buff-throated Apalis, Blue-shouldered Robin-Chat, Kakamega Greenbul, Green Hylia, Luhder’s Bush-Shrike, Ansorge’s Greenbul, Equatorial Akalat and Red-headed Bluebill.

Dusky Tit

In the afternoon, we finally connected with the rare Turner’s Eremomelas, feeding high in the canopy, but in good view (a great species on our Western Kenya Custom Birding Tour). We then found a party of Banded Prinias mixed with White-chinned Prinias. We also had a female Yellow-crested Woodpecker exploring a nesting hole, near a Yellow-billed Barbet and two Snowy-crowned Robin-Chats.

Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat

Blue-shouldered Robin-Chat

A male Black-faced Rufous Warbler showed well for some minutes, skulking among vines at eye level. We closed the day with two African Shrike-Flycatchers (a male and a female) tending to a young fledgling (a great breeding record on our Western Kenya Custom Birding Tour).

African Shrike-Flycatcher and fledgling

DAY 9 – 13/11/2021: KAKAMEGA FOREST TO NAIROBI

We had a majorly travel day but we had another goal to achieve today. We had last evening found a helpless Steppe Buzzard that was so weak it could not fly. Due to this, some local boys had caught the bird and tethered it, causing more harm than they knew. We had a chat with them and explained why that is wrong, then picked the bird and housed it overnight. We had made arrangements with Simon Thomsett at the Kenya Bird of Prey Trust, to meet us and receive the bird for rehabilitation and treatment.

Yellow-billed Barbet

We also made a roadside stop near Timboroa, where we enjoyed a pair of Yellow-bellied Waxbills.

When we met Simon, we were able to see a few local species of the vast Soysambu Conservancy, where the raptor centre is located. These included European Roller, Red-capped Lark, Northern Wheatear, Isabelline Wheatear, Secretarybird (a great record for the Western Kenya Custom Birding Tour), Lesser Kestrel and Blue-naped Mousebird.

Secretarybird

We then carried on to Nairobi, marking the end to a lovely Western Kenya Custom Birding Tour, but not before seeing the Cape Rooks along the highway.

Grey-headed Kingfisher

Mau Forest Guereza with baby

Brian Finch’s or Malaba Rock Agama

A walk in Kakamega Forest

 

To book a Western Kenya Custom Birding Tour or our regular Western Kenya Birding Tour, please contact us today.